Saturday, November 24, 2007

Some Plants You Should Consider Growing

My seed catalogs are starting to come in - I'm always excited to see them, even though I have to put them aside for the winter lull right at the moment. "Next year's garden" is always perfect, a glorious riot of food and beauty that never has weeds or imperfections. I take a great deal of pleasure in my fantasy, just as I do in the real, imperfect garden.

There are a million gardening books out there to tell you how to grow perfect tomatoes and lettuces. And that's important - in my house, salsa is a food group. But the reality is that for those of us attempting to produce a large portion of our calories, tomatoes and lettuce are not sufficient - we need to get either the most calories or the best possible nutrition out of our kitchen gardens and landscaping. So I've compiled a list of plants that I think are an important addition to many home gardens - both annual and perennial.

1. Buckwheat. Buckwheat is the perfect multipurpose plant. Many of you have probably used it as a green manure, taking advantage of its remarkable capacity to shade out weeds and produce lots of green material. But it is also one of the easiest grains to grow in the garden - simply let it mature and harvest the seed, and it makes a delicious and highly nutritious salad and cooking green. Although it won't be quite as good at soil building if you do it this way, buckwheat can be used as a triple-purpose crop - plant a few beds with it, harvest the greens steadily (but lightly) for salad (it is particularly good during the heat of summer since it has a lightly nutty taste not too far off lettuce and will grow in hot weather), cook some of the mature greens, harvest seed, cut the plants back to about an inch leaving the plant material on the ground. The buckwheat will then grow back up again, and you can harvest young salad greens and cut it back again for green manure.

2. Sweet potatoes. Think this is a southern crop? Not for me. I grow "Porto Rico" sweet potatoes in upstate New York. Garden writer Laura Simon grows them on cool, windy Nantucket. I've met people who grow them in Ontario and North Dakota. Sweet potatoes have quite a range if started indoors, and more northerners should grow them. They are enormously nutritious, store extremely well (some of my sweets last more than a year), and unutterably delicious. They do need light, sandy soil and good drainage, so I grow them mostly in raised beds with heavily amended soil - my own heavy wet clay won't do.

3. Blueberries. If there was ever an ornamental edible, this is it. A prettier shrub than privet or most common privacy hedge plants, it produces berries and turns as flaming red as any burning bush in the autumn. I have no idea why more people don't landscape with blueberries. Add to that the fact that blueberries constitute a "super food." They have more antioxidants than any single food, and are nutritional powerhouses. They do need acidic soil, but there are blueberries for all climates. Definitely worth replacing your shrubs with.

4. Amaranth - I've grown amaranth before, but this year's experimentation with "Golden Giant" and "Orange" was fascinating. In two 5'x4' beds I harvested 11.2 and 13.9 lbs of amaranth seed respectively. The plants are stunningly beautiful - 9' tall, bright honey gold or deep orange, with green variegated leaves. The leaves are also a good vegetable cooked with garlic and sauteed, or cooked southern style. Amaranth is an easy grain crop to harvest and make use of, is delicious, can be popped like popcorn, and makes wonderful cereal. Despite its adaptation to the Southwest (where it routinely yields extremely well with minimal water), it tolerated my wet, humid climate just fine.

5. Chick peas. Unlike most beans, which must be planted after the last frost, chick peas are highly nutritious and extremely frost tolerant. Plant breeder Carol Deppe has had them overwinter in the pacific northwest, and they can be planted as early as April here, or as late as July and still mature a crop. Unlike peas and favas that don't like hot weather, and most dry beans that don't like cold, chick peas seem happy no matter what. If you've only ever eaten store chick peas, you'll be fascinated to experience home grown ones - it is, in many ways, as big a revelation as homegrown tomatoes.

6. Beets. I know, I know, there' s no vegetable anyone hates as much as the beet. Poor beets - they are so maligned. We should all be eating more beets - especially pregnant women, women in their childbearing years who may become pregnant, and those at risk of heart disease and stomach and colon cancer. Beets are rich in folate (which prevents birth defects) and in studies have shown enormous capacity to reduce cholesterol and blood pressure, and fight colon and stomach cancer. Beets store well, yield heavily, provide highly nutritious greens for salad and cooking and are the sweetest food in nature. If you hate beets, give them another try - consider roasting beets with salt and pepper, or steaming them and pureeing them with apples and ginger. Laurie Colwin used to swear that her recipe for beets with angel hair pasta could convert anyone into a beet lover. Really, try them again!

7. Flax. You can grow this one in your flower beds, mixed in with your marigolds. Flax is usually a glorious blue - the kind of blue all flower gardeners covet. But the real reason to grow it is the seeds. Flaxseed oils are almost half omega-three fatty acids. A recent article claimed that we have no choice but to turn to GMO crops to provide essential omega threes without stripping the ocean - ignoring the fact that we can and should be growing flax everywhere, and enjoying flaxseed in our baked goods and our meals. Flax has particular value in nothern intensive gardening, which tends to be low in fats. If you grow more than you need, flaxseed is an excellent chicken feed - my poultry adore it.

8. Popcorn. If I could grow only one kind of corn, it would be popcorn, and popcorn is particularly suited to home scale gardening. There are many dwarf varieties, and many that yield well. And popcorn can be ground for flour (it is a bit of work, though, since popcorn is very hard), or popped for food. My kids like popcorn as breakfast cereal, or, of course, as a snack. Popcorn yields quite well for me in raised beds, and is always a treat at my house. It has all the merits of a whole grain, but is "accessible" to people not accustomed to eating brown rice or whole wheat - a great way to transition to a whole foods diet.

9. Kidney beans. While kidneys have lower protein levels than soy beans, they are very close to soy in total protein, and have the advantage of yielding more per acre. There are a number of pole variety kidney beans that are suitable to "three sisters" polyculture as well, so you can grow the two together. If I could grow only one dry bean (I usually grow 10 or more) it would probably be a kidney variety.

10. Rhubarb. Why rhubarb? Because it will tolerate almost any growing conditions, including part shade (most vegetables won't), wet soil, and you jumping up and down on it and trying to get it out. Once it is established, rhubarb is tireless. It is also delicious - it does require a fair bit of sweetener (stevia, applejuice or pureed cooked beets will do if you are avoiding sugar). We like it cooked to tart-sweet for a few minutes with just a little almond extract. But its great value is that it provides fresh, nutritious, "fruity" tasting food as early as April here, and goes on as late as July, happily producing spear after spear of calcium rich, tasty food, right when you are desperate for something, anything but dandilions and lettuce. I'm in the process of converting the north side of my house to a vast rhubarb plantation (ok, not that vast), because we can never get enough of it here.

11. Turnips. Let's say you live in an apartment, and want greens all winter, but don't have even a south facing windowsill available. What can you do? Well, you can buy a bag of turnips from your farmer's market. Eat some of them raw, enjoying the delicious sweet crispness of them. Shredded, they are a wonderful salad vegetable. Cook some, and mash them or roast them crisp. And take a few of the smaller turnips, and put them in a pot with some dirt on it, and stick them in a corner - east or west facing is best, but even north will work. And miraculously, using only its stored energy, the pots will go on producing delicious, nutritious turnip greens even in insufficient light. It is magic. If you do have a south facing windowsill, save it for the herbs, and put your potted turnips in the others.

12. Maximillian sunflowers. These are the perennials. They are ornamental, tall and stunning in the back of a border. They will tolerate any soil you can offer them, as long as they get full sun. They also produce oil seeds and edible roots, prevent erosion and can tolerate steep slopes, minimal water and complete and utter neglect. Don't forget to eat them!

13. Hopi Orange Winter Squash. We all have our favorite winter squash, and perhaps you know one that I'll like even better. But this variety has the advantage of keeping up to 18 months without softening, delicious flavor that improves in storage, and high nutritional value.

14. Annual Alfalfa. Most alfalfa is grown for forage, and it has to be grown on comparatively good, limed soil. But alfalfa is good people food too, and even a garden bed's worth can be enormously valuable. First, of course, it is a nitrogen fixer. While you can grow perennial varieties, the annual fixes more available nitrogen, faster. It can be cut back several times as green manure during the course of a season, or you can harvest it for hay to feed your bunnies or chickens. Don't forget to dehydrate some for tea - alfalfa is a nutritional powerhouse. And if you permit it to go to seed, the seeds make delicious sprouts and have the virtue of lasting for years. I've found that the annual version will make seed at the end of the season for harvest.

15. Potatoes. A few years ago I did an experiment - I threw a bit of compost on top of a section of my gravel driveway (and by "a bit" I do mean a little bit - not a garden bed's worth but a light coating), added a sprinking of bone meal, dropped some pieces of potatoes on the ground, and covered them with mulch hay. Periodically I added a bit more and replaced the sign that said "please don't drive on my potatoes" and in September, I harvested a reasonably good yield, given the conditions (about 30lbs from a 4'x4' square). I did it just to confirm what people have always known - potatoes grow in places on rocky, poor soil (or no soil) that no other staple crop can handle. Don't get me wrong - potatoes will be happier in better conditions, but potatoes can tolerate all sorts of bad situations, and come back strong. And potatoes respond better to hand cultivation than any other grain - until the 1960s hand grown, manured potatoes routinely outyielded green revolution varlieties of grains grown with chemical fertilizers. If there's hope to feed the world, it probably lies in potatoes.

16. Sumac. No, not the poison stuff, but yes, I mean the weedy tree that grows along the roadsides here. That weedy tree, you may not realize, has many virtues. Besides its flaming fall color and value for wildlife habitat and food, sumac makes a lovely beverage. If you harvest the red fruits in July or August and soak them, you'll get a lemony tasting beverage, as high in vitamin C as lemonjuice. Since sumac grows essentially over the entire US area that won't support lemons, this is enormously valuable. You can can freeze or can sumac lemonade for seasoning and drinking all year round. Poison sumac has white or greenish white berries, so they are easy to tell apart. Sumac's other value is as a restorative to damaged soil - densely planted sumac returns bare sand to fertility fairly quickly, as a University of Tennesee study shows.

17. Parsnips. If you don't live in the northeast, or do biointensive gardening, you probably don't eat parsnips. Me, I'm a New Englander, and the sweet, fragrant flavor of parsnips is a childhood joy. But even I hadn't ever had a real parsnip - one left in the garden after the ground freezes for its starches to convert to sugars. Parsnips are one of the most delicious things in nature, nutritionally dense, and just about the only food you can harvest in upstate New York in February (you do have to mulch them deeply if you don't want them frozen in the ground.

18. Potato onions. Onion seed doesn't last very long - and that's a worrisome thing. The truth is that if we can't get seed easily, and we can't grow out plants for seed easily because of some personal or environmental crisis, we might find ourselves without onions, and what a tragedy that would be. Who can cook without onions? No, we need to have onions. Which is why the perennial potato onions, that simply stay in the ground and are pulled and replanted are so enormously valuable - good tasting, put them where you want them, pull up what you need and ignore the rest. They'll give you scallions before you could get them any other way, and will provide a decent supply of small, but storable and delicious onions.

Anyway, I hope this helps you as you sort through your seed catalogs! Happy dreaming!

Sharon

73 comments:

Maeve said...

It is comforting to know that I am not alone in my seed catalog weirdness, LOL!!!

In the middle of winter, there are few comforts as warming as poring over the pages and planning glorious garden after glorious garden.

I will have to look for the Potato Onions. I can imagine cooking without onions, and it is a horrifying thought.

Karen said...

I was going through the archives a while back and you made some great recommendations for seed catalogs, and I can no longer find it! Does anyone know where that post is?

Anonymous said...

Once you’ve harvested the crops you have to store them. In North Texas we plant onion transplants (slips—not sets) October-November for harvest in May. I store the onions outside, out of the sun, on screen doors up on sawhorses. They keep for about four months. The Texas heat prevents them from sprouting. We’re eating the last of this year’s onions now.

We plant potatoes in February for June harvest. I’ve experimented with storing potatoes in sand and in sawdust, and definitely prefer the sawdust. Sand dries them out. This year I used wood chips, the kind you can buy at a pet store. I use 5-gallon buckets and make a layer of wood chips then a layer of potatoes. Don’t let the potatoes touch. If you store them at about 70 degrees they keep about four months, then they sprout.

Christina said...

What a lot of good ideas! I grow some of these plants already, but you gave me some ideas for nest year's garden. I tried chickpeas once but they turned out very small - maybe I should have planted them earlier. I will consider buckwheat, it will probably grow well here.

Dry beans don't grow well in our short, cool, wet growing season but fava beans are a staple as are dry peas. Not just the bright green variety, we also grow an old, greyish kind that dries well and makes a wonderful pea soup!

Dry peas are very easy to grow and a great alternative if you can't grow dry beans.

And I agree totally about beets, turnips and parsnips. We harvest most of our parsnips in early spring (I routinely forget to mulch the parsnip bed, so they freeze in the soil during winter). Fresh roots in spring are a real treat! I also have some turnips still in the ground - they will be harvested soon, I'm not sure if they can stay in the ground in winter.

Beets are great too - I grow a very sweet yellow kind, a striped red-and-white kind (Chioggia beets) which is good eaten raw, and the usual red, slightly spicy kind. The last beets were harvested a few days ago. I'm in fact having oven roasted potatoes and beets with feta cheese and tzatziki for dinner tonight!

Christina
in SW Sweden

e4 said...

Great stuff.

Wanna barter some seeds? :)

Christina said...

BTW, don't forget rutabagas/swedes! They are easy to grow and taste great fresh when young. Older rutabagas are good mashed with carrots and potatoes - a traditional Swedish dish, served with sausage or salted pork.

Anonymous said...

Karen,

Search for the Monday, January 08, 2007, post "Where to buy your seeds, and where not to."

Rachel said...

Thanks for remembering us appartment dwellers. I have East and North windows, not much grows but a few herbs. Can't wait to try the Turnips.

rhonda jean said...

Sharon, it's good to see you're growing these staples. I grow a lot of them too. I'd like to add pigeon peas to your list. They're a very handy high protein lentil that will store well in the pantry. The bushes are drought tolerant and can be cut back for about 4 or 5 years before needing to be replanted. The leaves are also a useful mulch. If want to try some, email me and I'll post some seeds over to you.

Karen said...

Thanks to anonymous! It's a great list if anyone else needs one...

Anonymous said...

Thanks for the great list. I just have to add that you can also eat sumac shoots. We just peel the outer coating off the new growth and eat what's inside. It's not the greatest (IMO) but there's not much else growing early in the spring here in WI, so it does seem like a treat.

GPinWI

Leila said...

Sumac, huh? The people of the Middle East used sumac as a souring agent before the advent of lemons from India. It's still used as a spice in Syrian, Lebanese, Palestinian and perhaps other regional cuisines.

Za'atar the mixture (as opposed to the individual herb also named za'atar) gets its distinct flavor from the sumac added to the dried za'atar herb. Now what za'atar is exactly is under dispute. An Israeli interlocutor on a food newsgroup ten years ago sniffily corrected me when I said it is wild thyme. Oh no it's not, she said. It is hyssop, or it's Syrian wild marjoram, but it's NOT wild thyme. Funny, every Arabic-English dictionary calls it thyme, but this woman seemed absolutely assured in her botanical pronouncements. Whatever. It's a pungent herb in the thyme-oregano-marjoram family; you dry it and mix with powdered sumac, sesame seeds and salt, and then add olive oil to small quantities of it for a pungent dip for bread or spread for pizzas.

However sumac gives some people an allergic reaction, so you must try it with caution the first time you eat it. Ethiopian and Middle eastern stores usually carry powdered sumac. But if you're growing it, you don't need to buy it, do you?

Leila said...

On a related note to your article, here are two pieces about perennial food crops from today's SF Chronicle. One lists ten you should grow in California, including Andean surprises like the oca, the yacon and the mashua:

http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2007/11/24/HOFKT0647.DTL

and the other article talks about perennial grains.

http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2007/11/24/HOFKT0670.DTL

Your article is most useful for the home gardener not in CA, but I think these two complement your essay very well. And maybe the oca or the mashua will grow in upstate NY, who knows?

Leila said...

Trying again on the links.

10 perennial food crops

and Potential for growing food from perennial crops

Cheryl said...

Great post, Sharon. I grow many of the things you mentioned, but have never thought of trying some of them.
We're going to have a much larger garden next year - I'll definitely be adding to my seed list. Thanks!

Anonymous said...

Sharon-

Any tips on where to find some of these seeds, specifically the sunflower, potato onion, chickpeas and amaranth?? I've looked in my favorite catalogues: Johnny's and FEDCO, as well as Seeds of Change but no luck there for these.

Heather G said...

Kale! It can be harvested in the middle of winter (if you can get to it). Lots of nutrients and easy to grow. Can harvest from the first year, and starts flowering and making seeds the second year. Perennial, but picking the leaves may start later in the season after the first year, because of the flowering.

Good boiled or steamed. I like to cut up the leaves, cook it separately as it's a sort of tough high fiber green if you boil it, then add it in with onions, garlic, cheese and noodles. Rice would work too.

Or pick the leaves young, and they'll be more tender.

Also, we blanched and froze some this year, and dried some. The dried stuff tastes different than steamed or baked... a little nutty I guess. And not tough to chew, which surprised me. I'd add it to a snack bag of nuts and dried fruit, no problem!

For drying, my friend A and I took large whole leaves and laid them on trays and baked in the oven at low temp. After done and cooled, you just stuff them in a bag or container for future munching.

Enjoyed growing potatoes this last year, and will be growing more root veggies this coming year!

Thanks for writing about the grains and kidney beans too -- been wondering about those, and will try some!

Louise said...

I love posts like these. They are so very useful to me. (The other post 'like this' that I have used until I have almost exhausted it is the 'cookbooks' post. I have read almost all of the books you recommend, except the ones that are impossible to find in Australia, and learnt immense amounts from them.)

e4 said...

Anonymous - Check the online catalog at localharvest.org or Baker Creek.

I think potato onions are the same as multiplier onions (but not quite the same as bunching onions). But I could be wrong...

homebrewlibrarian said...

I'm a big Seeds of Change fan as I grew a number of their plants in my small raised bed garden in Wisconsin. I still have quite a bit of seed left from last year but...now I live in Alaska.

Some things just won't grow outside here either because of temperature (doesn't get warm enough for practically everything except potatoes in the nightshade family for instance), the seasons are backwards (we get no rain in the spring and way too much of it in late summer/fall) or the light cycle is too extreme (take hops for instance - they grow like weeds here but won't flower because the trigger for flowering is reduction in light usually starting at the end of July. In July we still have over 17 hours of daylight).

That's not to say that things don't grow here. Potatoes of all varieties are particularly and spectacularly successful. Dark, leafy greens and root vegies do well, too. Grains, on the other hand, are few and far between. Beans don't do so well either although some types of pea flourish. Winter squash takes too long to mature and don't even think about corn.

Now rhubarb! THAT we have in quantity and it thrives throughout the growing season. Although the winner for production up here is zucchini (is there anywhere on the planet zucchini WON'T grow??).

Another difficulty is fruit trees. Blueberries (low and high bush), lingenberries, raspberries, salmonberries, cloudberries and I'm sure there are more thrive in their particular environments. On the other hand, apples, pears, cherries and other stone fruits are not very viable. There is a fruitgrowers association that has spent decades trying to find root stock that will thrive here and have had some success with apples but only summer apple varieties that are too soft for long term storage. I'm going to try planting apples next year but have already been working on gathering and preserving the berries I have access to (mostly through dehydration).

My plan is to try my hand at seeing what will grow to seed then saving the seed and growing it again to seed and so forth. There are a couple of seed companies that do offer plants that have been grown to be tolerant of northern lattitudes conditions but they're mostly the things I've already mentioned (greens, roots, potatoes, etc.). I want to try beans and grains and see what happens (hops, too, but then I brew my own beer on occasion). Hopefully, I won't have to depend on any success with the untried plants to feed myself!

In my dinking around to find seed suitable for Alaska conditions, I ran across the Victory Seed Company out of Oregon. Looks like a good company to check out as they are into organic techniques and open pollination.

http://www.victoryseeds.com/

Now if lentils could mature in less than 90 days, I'd be one ecstatic woman. Guess I'll just have to settle for beets...

Kerri

Anonymous said...

Isn't the hull on the buckwheat fairly hard to remove? How do you handle it?

Anonymous said...

Buckwheat needs to be processed to remove the slightly toxic seed coat. The traditional way is to soak the grain for 2-12 hours until it swells and cracks the coat. Then you dry it (toast lightly in an oven usually) until it shrinks again and pulls away inward. Then you can rub the seeds and sift off the husks. I grew my first buckwheat patch to seed this season and I am waiting to try this approach. Buckwheat kernel porridge is a recent trial for me and I have found it to be delicious. It is a very fast maturing crop so it is excellent for making the most of short seasons or for using as an after crop to mop up the nutrients left after the main crop.

Tasterspoon said...

This is a great list! And thanks to Leila, too, for the NoCal link. Just last week I was griping about whether there was anything I could grow in winter - I have a sad corner of my back patio I've been struggling all summer - I FAILED at ZUCCHINI - it seems a shame to waste the sunny weather we've been having, and maybe now that the leaves have fallen I'll have better luck.

The only think I can say I've really had success with this year (as a renting suburbanite with nearly nothing that's not paved) is nasturtiums! Super easy, super pretty, smell great, and taste great and peppery in salad and as garnish.

Anonymous said...

Here is an interesting little article:

http://newswire.ascribe.org/cgi-bin/behold.pl?ascribeid=20071115.114749&time=12%2050%20PST&year=2007&public=0

Apparently new research shows that seeds grown in the same environment as their maternal plant do better than seeds grown in a different environment. This is true even if the environment was not ideal for the maternal plant and it did not itself do very well there. It still somehow programs the seeds to be prepared for that environment. Sharon has mentioned seed saving more than once before and here is some brand-new supporting evidence that seeds saved from your own yard may grow there better than seeds obtained every year from an outside source. (Okay, the study only used one plant, but do we think this is the only plant in the world with epigenetic effects?)

Dewey

Dark Daughta said...

Wow, this is so great. Ohhh...I'm so excited, my mouth is watering and I can't wait for spring to come to get my hands all up in the soil. This is great! Thank you.

LimeSarah said...

Mmmmm...beets. :-) I'm definitely growing beets in the garden next summer; we didn't get nearly enough from the CSA.

I keep seeing parsnips described as "sweet" and "delicate". Is this only after they're frozen or something? They grow beautifully and prolifically on the CSA farm, but these are not sweet. They taste kind of like very strong bitter carrots, even the little tender ones. I want so much to like these vegetables, and nothing I do to them covers up the bitterness.

Christina said...

Parsnips shouldn't taste bitter. They are spicier than carrots, but still sweet. Our parsnips are best picked in early spring, but we start pickning them in late autumn when the summer veggies have stopped producing - they are always good.

We use parsnips in soups and stews, mashed with potatoes or oven roasted with a little honey. I don't like them raw, but some people do.

Anonymous said...

I have no sucess with blueberry on homegrounds in NJ because of deer.

MEA

Heather G said...

Parsnips are winter veggies -- frost sweetens them, if the way it's often said. More accurate is that with the cold weather the parsnip goes into storing all its energy (sugar) in the root. Best harvested after first frost and on into March, before it stars using its energy to send out fresh greens.

Dandelions have a similar warm-season thing, where the greens are great for salads until they start blooming -- all the sugars move to the blossoms. But then you can take the first blossoms and use them to make dandelion wine ;)

jess8t8 said...

Blueberries are definitely worth replacing shrubs. A very good source of antioxidants right in your garden.

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